Sleepless Nights Hotel Room Sprints So Much 7-Eleven What Its Like to Cover the Tokyo Olympics
Was it really going to come to this? One day during the 14-day âsoftâ quarantine all Olympic reporters in Tokyo reporters had to observeâ"donât ask me which day, itâs all a blurâ"I was going more than a little stir-crazy planted in a hotel-room chair, filing a story.
Under the regulations, I could only leave the room to travel to an Olympic venue to cover an event or to the press center. I could also go to a local convenience storeâ"in my case, 7-Elevenâ"for 15 minutes to grab snacks or a pre-packaged meal. No walks around the vibrant Shinjuku neighborhood in which our accommodations were located. No daily run. No leisurely fresh air stroll.
I had been in Tokyo for a week at this point, sleeping a lot less than I should, bouncing around to not always convenient venues, writing and reporting stories often within the confines of four walls. I could only engage with one of the worldâs greatest cities through the windows of a media bus or media-designated taxi (no public transportation allowed during quarantine). And now, on day whatever of quarantine, I had finally arrived at the foggy moment where my brain was struggling to type another word.
Then I came to a realization: I really, really need to move.
Truth be told, Iâm no fitness nut. But as Iâve advanced in age, the head-clearing benefits of a neighborhood jog have only seemed to increase. But going outside was against the rules. So I did the next best thing. Or, really, the only thing. I stepped out of my room and started sprinting up and down the narrow hallways, making like a much, much slower Elaine Thompson-Herah. If one of the other guests had opened their door that afternoon while I was running by, I would have been sent flying like a discus off the ceiling.
Tokyoâs pandemic rules that workedâ"and didnâtAt every Olympics, journalists gripe about the logisticsâ"the buses arenât running on time, the venues are too spread out, the food at the track and field snack bar is atrocious. Itâs practically a sport in itself. And no doubt, in the eight Olympics Iâve covered for TIME since Athens 2004, the Tokyo Games were the most difficult to maneuver.
Reporting on the Olympics is always a privilege and an adrenaline rush. These Games have been no different, even though the Olympics unfolded under a state of emergency in Tokyo, where COVID-19 cases are hitting all-time highs. If attending to those covering the Olympics wasnât top-of-mind for organizers trying to operate without unleashing a potentially horrific public health emergency, thatâs as it should be.
Sure, some of the rules didnât make a ton of sense. As my colleague Alice Park, a health reporter when sheâs not covering swimming and gymnastics, has detailed, a few of the practices here fly in the face of smart public health policy. Media are packed onto stale-air buses for the ride to the press center, we have to hold our unmasked faces up against scanners (one reporter after the other, potentially sharing respiratory droplets), and we conduct athlete interviews at indoor âmixed zones,â where athletes and media werenât always spread out.
And the rigidity of the rules took some getting used to. I realized I left an umbrella on a media bus the other day, just as it was driving away from us at the main Media Transport Mall. As I took off across the lot to retrieve it, a couple of volunteers nearly gang-tackled me, as if I were long-jumping over security at JFK. (An understanding worker eventually accompanied me across the lot, the driver on my bus was out taking a break. I gave the worker my phone number, so he could give me a shout when the driver came back. He agreed. Iâm still waiting for that call.)
In some âmixed-zonesâ where athletes and reporters can talk, from a social distance, media needed to secure a ticket to access the area. The sensible goal: limit tickets to limit crowding in a pandemic.
But as I approached a nearly empty mixed zone at menâs park skateboardingâ"the scorching heat surely dampened the enthusiasmâ"I figured I didnât really need a ticket. A staffer handed me one anyway. I took two steps. Another worker collected it.
Wait, what? Why?
Thank heaven for 7-ElevenOddities aside, the biggest daily stressesâ"on this reporter, at leastâ"involved transportation and food. Tokyo organizers cut back on the usual media bus service at these Games; again, with no fans here to fill the coffers, and additional money devoted to COVID-19 countermeasures, this was an understandable budget slash. Public transit is usually the best way to navigate a dense city. But it was off-limits to journalists during our first 14 days in the country. So we often had to rely on calling a phone number to reserve a taxi, navigating a language barrier, and hoping the driver would show up. When covering late-night games far outside central Tokyo, the fear of being stranded with no way to get home was real.
Eating well was its own challenge during the quarantine period. Tokyoâs 24-hour convenience stores are rightly beloved and offer far more options than their U.S. counterparts, but no one wants to subsist on them for two weeks when youâre in one of the worldâs gastronomic capitals. Following far too many consecutive nights standing under 7-Elevenâs bright white lights at 2 a.m., choosing between Nissin Big Cup Noddle and pre-packaged spaghetti as a Muzak version of âUnder the Seaâ loops, myopia sets in. Hence sprinting up and down the hotel hallway to stay sane.
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All in all, however, the Olympic positives always outweigh the downsides, even under these extraordinary circumstances. That spaghetti never failed to do the trick and kept me from going to bed hungry. The volunteers and workers who refused to bend illogical rules were just carrying out and instructions and doing their jobs. Weâve all been there.
The people of Tokyo could not have been friendlier and more helpful in a pinch. To the Tokyo police officer at 3Ã3 basketball who accepted my desperate request to take my cell phone and speak Japanese for 10 minutes to a lost taxi driver, guiding him to the correct pickup point, and even accompanying me there, thank you. Your kindness made the difference between a 1:30 a.m. hotel (and 7-Eleven) arrival and a 3:30 a.m. hotel (and 7-Eleven) arrival through a convoluted bus route; at the Olympics, every hour of rest counts.
Olympic quarantine liftsOn Tuesday, Aug. 3, I saw the magic word on the health-reporting app media had to download before arriving here: âCleared.â
Quarantine was up, so we could now move somewhat freely, though obviously masked and distanced, even for those of us who are fully vaccinated. I could finally navigate Tokyoâs subway system; despite a map thatâs downright daunting, and eat a restorative meal at one of the Shinjuku restaurants I had been jealously eyeing.
And I could go for a run. Early on the morning of clearance, I bounced out of the hotel and jogged down to the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, a green oasis Iâve been counting on since we booked the place in early 2019, a year before the pandemic struck. It didnât open until 9 a.m. But just running along the adjacent road, ingesting the aroma of actual trees, was restorative.
Air. Freedom. No threat of Room 808 knocking me into oblivion during a crazed indoor sprint, ending my Games early.
It makes all the difference.
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